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	<pubDate>5 Nov 2008 16:49:01 GMT</pubDate>
	<title>Improved Technique for Flashing and Anchoring Stone Coping</title>
	<description>UNTIL RECENT IMPROVEMENTS IN METAL
flashing, sealants and stone anchoring, the
details for coping on parapet or screen walls
remained unchanged for more than a century.</description>
	<link>http://www.masonpro.com/Improvedtechniques.pdf</link>
	<language>en</language>
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	<pubDate>5 Nov 2008 16:49:01 GMT</pubDate>
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	<item>
	<title>Improved Techniques</title>
	<description>UNTIL RECENT IMPROVEMENTS IN METAL
flashing, sealants and stone anchoring, the
details for coping on parapet or screen walls
remained unchanged for more than a century.
For several generations of architects,
stonemasons and bricklayers, metal flashing
under stone coping was reserved only for
very high-end projects.These typically lead,
copper or occasionally stainless steel
flashings were complex, expensive to
fabricate and not easy to install in the field.
Lapping deformed metals has historically
required field soldiering or use of low-tech
lap sealants such as roofing tar. Further
compounding the problem, designs did not
take into consideration the need for
expansion and contraction of the stone
coping. A full bed and head of mortar were
used to bond units to each other and to the
parapet. Unfortunately, this method further
exacerbated the problem by eliminating
space for expansion and contraction,
restricting the necessity for the coping to
move independently (along the horizontal
plane) from the wall below. Immediately
following completion, head and bed joints
begin to separate allowing water to infiltrate,
accelerating the cycle of deterioration.
Anchoring coping in the traditional
manner is simple in theory but difficult in
practice. It requires two or more holes for
each piece of stone to be drilled through the
metal flashing into the parapet below with
corresponding holes drilled into the bottom
of each piece of stone (Figure A). Lining up
holes with dowels requires precision
drilling while lifting and setting each piece
of stone up and over the set dowels is
cumbersome and risky. Performance of the
system is diminished with holes drilled
through the flashing that is intended to keep
water out.
Fortunately there is a high performance,
economical and field friendly detail to flash
and anchor traditional stone coping on
modern masonry wall systems. It reflects a
compilation of input from numerous
designers and craftsman including brick and
stonemasons from throughout our market
area.Their experience and wisdom continue
to propel grass root changes improving the
performance and economy of traditional
unit masonry.
This straightforward detail addresses
moisture, expansion and contraction
anchoring and labor concerns that have
eluded designers for nearly a century
(Figure B).
Metal flashing for this updated detail
incorporates standard 28 gauge (0.015˝)
type 304 stainless steel. Stainless provides a
very long life while eliminating the risk of
staining on the masonry below caused by
copper oxidation. Fabricated from flat stock
in 10´-0˝ length pieces, the 1⁄ 2˝ 45°
hemmed drip edge serves to deflect water
away from masonry below the flashing,
while the underside of the drip is a perfect receiver for polyurethane sealant that
prevents water from migrating up and under
the flashing (Figure C). A drip edge is
necessary on the inside and outside of
finished faces of high parapet and screen wall
copings to deflect water away from masonry
below. Inside the face of the parapet, metal
flashing can alternatively be fabricated to lap
or clip over the roofing counter flashing in
lieu of a drip edge (Figure D).
It is important to lap the metal flashing
sections a minimum of 4˝ using two beads
of non-skinning butyl sealant to the face of
the drip edges. Non-skinning butyl remains
pliable and watertight allowing metal to
expand and contract with the coping.
Sealants are available in colors to match
stainless steel or other prefinished metals.
Stone copings, available in a variety of
sizes and shapes, are to be set in a bed of
mortar or dry laid on plastic shims.
Mortarless installations of stone copings are
gaining in popularity. Mortar in this
updated detail serves solely as a means to
level and plumb the stone. Head joints
between each piece of stone need to be
cleaned and remain clear down to the metal
flashing to allow for maximum expansion
and contraction of each piece of coping.
Expansion joints are later filled with backer
rod and polyurethane sealant. If coping is
laid in mortar, simply rake it back 3⁄8˝ to
receive the sealant at a later time. Treat
copings set on shims like head joints later
filled with backer rod and sealant.
After the top course of CMU on the
parapet is grouted solid, it is ready to
receive the metal flashing. When flashing a
cavity wall that includes insulation and an
air space, it may be necessary to bridge the
space with a light gauge angle fastened to
the top of the CMU (Figure E).The wall is
now ready to install the flashing in 10´-0˝
lengths with the minimum 4˝ laps over a
double bead of non-skinning butyl sealant.
A continuous bead of butyl sealant may also
be placed on top of the inner and outer face
shell prior to setting the metal flashing,
helping to hold it in place while waiting to
set coping. The alternative method of
sealing the flashing, mentioned above,
incorporates the 45° drip edge as a receiver
for the post installed polyurethane sealant.
Prior to setting each stone anchor,
center a 3˝ square rubberized asphalt gasket
on the drill location. Drill each hole to
tightly fit a 1⁄4˝ diameter x 11⁄4˝ expansion
pin. Near the end of the first piece of stone, a starter anchor is fastened on top of the
flashing and fit into a slot cut into the
underside of the stone. The vertical leg of
the anchor should reach at least 1˝ into the
underside of the stone. Anchors made of
type 304 stainless steel are the right choice
regardless of the type of natural or
manufactured stone selected. Exterior
coping conditions have the highest moisture
exposure warranting the use of stainless
steel for all metallic accessories. The first
piece of stone is now ready for placement
on a bed of mortar or set and leveled with
plastic shims.
This updated method of anchoring stone
coping recognizes the importance of
minimizing penetrations through the
flashing and reduces the time and labor to
set each piece of coping in half. Repeat
these steps setting split-tail anchors in every
head joint of the coping course (Figure F).
Utilizing a single stainless steel split-tail
anchor in every head joint radically
improves the sequence of installation. To
accommodate expansion, slot depth on
ends of stone should be deep enough to
prevent the split-tail from touching the
stone. Each piece of stone simply slides
into position to fit into the previously
anchored split-tail. One split-tail anchors
the matching head of two pieces of stone.
Once the coping is in place, the head
and bed joints are ready for backer rod and
sealant. Carefully follow the stone suppliers
recommended cleaning method to avoid
streaking or staining if mortar is the
bedding choice. The mortarless system
eliminates the need to chemically clean the
coping and the wall is finished.</description>
	<pubDate>5 Nov 2008 16:49:01 GMT</pubDate>
	<link>http://www.masonpro.com/Improvedtechniques.pdf</link>
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